Method of adhesively binding the turned in edges of an article of apparel



B. LIEBOWITZ July 2l, 1936. METHD oF ADHESIVELY BINDING THE TURNED IN EDGEs oF AN ARTICLE oF APPAREL Filed March 28, 1936 mm Mm T e N N/ R wl o T .m/YM MB Patented July 21, 1936 ITED STATES PATENT OFFICE METHOD F ADHESIVELY BINDING THE TURNED vIN EDGES 0F AN ARTICLE OF APPAREL Application March 28, 1936, Serial No. 71,382

2 Claims.

This invention relates to a method of adhesively binding the turned in edges of an article of apparel, and more particularly to such articles as comprise a plurality of plies of fabric adhesively united by means of adhesive material contalned in one of the plies or disposed between the plies. The present invention is an improvement in the methods of manufacture described in my patents Nos. 1,968,409 and 1,968,410.

In fabricating articles of apparel, such as co1- lars or the like, in accordance with the methods described in the last two mentioned patents, there s a narrow region close to the edge where one of the plies is not adhesively united to the other plies because of the manner in which the article is first stitched and then turned inside out. The primary object of this invention is to secure adhesion in this zone Where one of the plies is normally unadhered. Another object is to accomplish this result in a simple manner withoutadding appreciably to the labor or material cost of producing the articles of apparel. A further object is to accomplish the desired result with minimum disturbance to the manufacturing routine. A still further object is to provide a simple and inexpensive method of reinforcing the turned in edgesof articles of apparel. f

The invention will be made clear by reference tothe accompanying drawing, in which:-

Figure 1 is a bottom plan View of a three-ply collar showing the unadhered portion of the bottom ply;

Fig. 2 is a cross-section on the line'2-2 of Figure 1;

Fig. 3 is a similar cross-sectional view of a two-ply collar; Fig. 4 is a plan view of a collar tcp before the plies are turned inside out, showing one manner of carrying out my invention;

Fig. 5 is a similar view showing a modification in the manner of carrying out the invention;

Fig. 6 is a cross-sectional view of a collar top, such as shown in Fig. 4, after the collar top` has been turned inside out; and- Fig. `l is a sectional View on an enlarged scale showing a modification.

Referring to the drawing, I illustrates a collar top to which is attached the collar band 2 by usual cutting and stitching procedure. The col- 50 lar top l, as shown in Fig. 2, may consist of an outside ply` 3, a lining ply 4, and a bottom ply 5, which plies may be first stitched together in the usual way by means of the stitches 6, then turned inside out and then stitched near the 55 edge by the stitches l. It will be noted that the stitches 6, after turning, do not appear on the surface, whereas the stitches l do appear on the surface. When the collar is made in accordance with the disclosure of my Patent No. 1,968,410, the lining ply 4 has interwoven therewith strands 5 of cellulose derivative, more particularly cellulose acetate, which strands, after the completion of the collar, become the adhesive agent by wetting with solvent and subjecting to pressure to bind the plies. Instead of making the collar of three plies, however, it may be made of two plies, as indicated in Fig. 3. The latter construction is particularly adaptable to collars and cuffs for womens dresses or suits. In this event the back ply 8 contains the adhesive material interwoven therewith, but the weaving is so done as to satinize the cloth, that is to say, the cellulose derivative strands lie practically all on one side of the cloth with relatively a very small percentage appearing on the back surface of the cloth.

It will be seen from Fig. 2 that in the region between the two rows of stitches 6 and 'l there is a zone 9 in which the bottom ply 5 and the turned in edge thereof are not in contact with 25 the lining 4 and consequently remain unadhered after the adhesion process is completed. This zone is therefore subject to puckering on the bottom, as illustrated in Figure l. The two-ply collarshown in Fig. 3 has a like zone 9 between the stitches 6 and 1 where the top ply 3 and its turned in edge are not in contact with the satinized face of the back ply 8 and which is similarly subject to puckering. In a three-ply collar such as shown in Fig. 2 the puckering is not a serious objection because it occurs on the lower ply which is normally hidden from view. In a two-ply collar such as shown in Fig. 3, the puckering is objectionable because it takes place on the top ply. Such puckering also objectionable in three-ply cuffs because the normal manner of wearing cuffs often exposes the puckered region.

In accordance with my invention, I secure adhesion in the normally unadhered zone by introducing the adhesive material in the form of one or more rows of stitches of cellulose derivative thread. The manner of accomplishing this ls shown clearly in Figs. 4 and 5 which illustrate a collar top after the plies thereof have been stitched together but before said plies have been turned inside out. In Fig. 4 the collar top I ls shown as stitched together in the usual way by the line of stitches 6 shown in Fig. 2. The stitches 6 may be made as usual with cotton thread. Now, in order to introduce the adhesive material I add the extra rows of stitches l between the edge of the cut parts and the two of stitches 6. 'Ihese additional rows of stitches Ill are -made with cellulose derivative thread, more particularly with cellulose acetate thread. The position taken by the rows of stitches I0, after the collar is turned inside out, is clearly shown in Fig. 6. While I have shown two extra rows of stitches I0, it is to be understood that I may use more or less, depending upon the amount `of y adhesive material which I wish to introduce.

Due to the fact that the otherwise unadhered zone 9 is narrow and is caught between the two rows of stitches 6 and 1, it is not necessary to have very strong adhesion in this area. Hence, a singleextra row of stitches I0 may even be suilicient, particularly if a rather large sized acetate yarn is used for making the stitches,as, for example, 150 denier. Two rows with smaller yarns are preferable.

In Fig. 5 I have illustrated the same collar top as in Fig. 4, but have shown the two rows of stitches `Il) replaced by a single row of stitches Il made as an overcast stitch, such as is well known in certain garment manufacturing industries.

With reference to the zone 9, Fig. 6 shows that the adhesive yarns lll contact the bottom ply 5 in this zone and hence secure adhesion of the back ply 5 to its inturned edge. It is to be observed that it is the portion of the stitches l0 which contact the bottom ply 5 in the zone 9 which are active in securing this adhesion. Nearly all modernl stitching machines, whether of the so-called lock-stitch type or of the chainstitch type (except for the single chain" stitch) employ two threads in the forming of the stitch, a bottom thread and a top thread. In making the extra rows ofstitches l0 it is not necessary to have'both the top and bottom threads of cellulose derivative because it is essential only that the thread which contacts the otherwise unadhered area 9 be of adhesive material. Fig. 7 is across-section taken through and parallel to one of the rows of stitches I0 of Fig. 4 to illustrate a stitch made with the bottom thread only of cellulose derivative. The stitch I0 of Fig. 4 is here shown as consisting of a top thread Illa and a bottom thread I0b. The top thread I 0a is of cotton and the bottom thread lob of cellulose derivative. It is important to observe that the distinction between top and bottom threads herein is determined by the order in which the plies of the collar 3, I and 5 are laid. In Fig. 7, the lining ply 4 is shown on top, the face ply 3 immediately below that, and the bottom ply 5 on the bottom. After thecollar is turned inside out the face ply 3 will come to the 5 surface as shown in Fig. 2, and the lining ply 4 will 'come in the middle. In making the rows of stitches Illa and I0b, care must be exercised that the cellulose derivative thread lub is next to the inside ply` 5. 10

Instead of running the stitches I0 or Il through all the plies of the collar after the plies have been run together, as shown in Figs. 4 and 5, one can also accomplish substantially the same vin the ply 5, before the plies are assembled together. In the case of the structure shown in Fig. 3, the stitches would have to be applied to .the ply 3. In either case, it is necessary to conilne the extra stitches of cellulose derivative yarn to the region between the edge of the ply and the line represented by the stitches 6.

This invention may be applied not only for the elimination of the puckering in the zone 9, but may be employed generally for reinforcing turned in edges of articles of apparel. My invention is not to be regarded as limited to the specic details herein described and illustrated in the drawing.

What I claim iszl. A method of adhesively binding turned in edges of an article of apparel consisting of a' plurality of plies of fabric, whiclrcomprises stitching an edge portion of the plies prior to turning with thread having latently adhesive properties, turning in the edge, and treating the turned in edge to develop the adhesive properties o1' the thread and to bind edge parts of the plies adhesively together. A

2. A method o1' adhesively binding turned in edge parts of an article of apparel, which comprises applying one or more rows of stitches of cellulose derivative thread to one or more parts of the `edge which will come in contact when -the .edge is turned, turning the edge, and subsequently developing the latently adhesive properties of the cellulose derivative thread to bind 50 turned in edge parts together.

BENJAMIN LIEBOWIIZ. 

